GRIGRI - assurance techniques by Karin Sterky
Source: 8a.nu
U n God's gift to sport climbers (a common view on the Petzl GRIGRI). However, it is probable q ue have heard of magical accidents or incidents where the self-stopping mechanism did not work c work property. GRIGRI From 8a.nu consider the device as the safest assurance climbing and believe these accidentesson caused by improper handling. I would like to share some thoughts about the techniques of assurance.
According to Petzl, hands should always be on the line, on both sides of GRIGRI. However, even Petzl admits this is difficult when winds quickly. To overcome the problem recommend "slide the hand holding the free end of the rope into the device and keep the cam manually open ...". Most climbers are Petzl recommendation encode il perform. is difficult to put enough pressure on camera to loosen enough while clinging to the free end of the rope. However, the climbing community has invented new methods that are not 100% sure.
Petzl Recommendation _Comunidad _ _ _ and _ _ _ Normal_ Procedure New Technique
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Petzl
The way to wind quickly
is not commonly used, prob Ableman is not enough you Ra recently asked or is perceived as uncomfortable.
Adjusted and common use
hand has moved up to increase pressure on the cam and this has not stopped the free end of the rope and turn the Grigri - Danger! New technique
Fast and convenient
free end of the fixed rope
The angle is GRIGRI
There are of course variations in community and the normal procedure of the previous examples, but the fact is that most climbers release the free end of the rope, totally against all the recommendations of Petzl and is very dangerous. The new technique on the other hand, never misses the free end of the rope and even makes it easy to exert pressure on the cam. Both the comfort and safety are thus assured. addition, there is no risk of twisting the GRIGRI (see below).
the GRIGRI incidents are probably due to a combination of the following factors:
1. The rope is too thin .
Petzl recommends that the diameter of the rope should be between 10 and 11 cm, 9.7 cm but is accepted. Climbers use even thinner strings, based on the auto-stop mechanism, which can be dangerous.
2. The GRIGRI twists - turns 90 degrees, the auto-stop mechanism is unable to lock properly.
GRIGRI The problem when you turn is caused because it is not connected to the harness. For work correctly, the snap of lal GRIGRI must always be in the belay loop only. attached incorrectly, the May hold the carabiner in an angle GRIGRI Where the self-breaking Unable to lock function is, Even if the fingers Are Not Touching the cam. This problem is accenture with a large screw-carabiner.
3. The insurer is not subject to the free end of the rope .
Most climbers have too much confidence in the role of self-arrest. To ensure a fast and reliable clearance neglect the free end rope to hold the cam.
Finally, note that these thoughts are not of Petzl. Petzl has not approved the techniques described above and its use is at your own risk .
Original article
GRIGRI - Techniques belaying by Karin Sterky 8a.nu
_______ 
_______ 
Petzl
The way to wind quickly
is not commonly used, prob Ableman is not enough you Ra recently asked or is perceived as uncomfortable.
Adjusted and common use
hand has moved up to increase pressure on the cam and this has not stopped the free end of the rope and turn the Grigri - Danger! New technique
Fast and convenient
free end of the fixed rope
The angle is GRIGRI
There are of course variations in community and the normal procedure of the previous examples, but the fact is that most climbers release the free end of the rope, totally against all the recommendations of Petzl and is very dangerous. The new technique on the other hand, never misses the free end of the rope and even makes it easy to exert pressure on the cam. Both the comfort and safety are thus assured. addition, there is no risk of twisting the GRIGRI (see below).
the GRIGRI incidents are probably due to a combination of the following factors:
1. The rope is too thin .
Petzl recommends that the diameter of the rope should be between 10 and 11 cm, 9.7 cm but is accepted. Climbers use even thinner strings, based on the auto-stop mechanism, which can be dangerous.
2. The GRIGRI twists - turns 90 degrees, the auto-stop mechanism is unable to lock properly.
GRIGRI The problem when you turn is caused because it is not connected to the harness. For work correctly, the snap of lal GRIGRI must always be in the belay loop only. attached incorrectly, the May hold the carabiner in an angle GRIGRI Where the self-breaking Unable to lock function is, Even if the fingers Are Not Touching the cam. This problem is accenture with a large screw-carabiner.
3. The insurer is not subject to the free end of the rope .
Most climbers have too much confidence in the role of self-arrest. To ensure a fast and reliable clearance neglect the free end rope to hold the cam.
Finally, note that these thoughts are not of Petzl. Petzl has not approved the techniques described above and its use is at your own risk .
Original article
GRIGRI - Techniques belaying by Karin Sterky 8a.nu
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